Construct and adapt patterns to customers' requirements

This unit describes the knowledge, skills and attitudes required to take customer measurements and assess figuration for different types of figures. The unit also deals with producing standard size patterns and adapting these for different sizes and garments.

Elements & performance criteria

1. Take customer measurements and assess figuration

1.1 Correct set of measures for garment is identified. [range: A]
1.2 Complete set of measures is taken according to organizational policies and procedures.
1.3 Customer's figuration is assessed and recorded accurately.
1.4 Measurements are documented accurately according to organizational procedures.

2. Produce standard size patterns

2.1 Methods approved by the organization for creating blocks are selected and used. [range: B]
2.2 Specific types of blocks are selected for garment to be constructed. [range: C]
2.3 Blocks are matched to specified size requirements and charts.
2.4 Blocks are proportioned and styled to meet specified requirements.
2.5 Marking, sizing and construction line information and dating are clearly shown and accurately positioned on blocks.
2.6 Blocks are produced in the required medium and presented to meet requirements according to agreed schedule. [range: D]
2.7 Initial patterns are produced in the required medium and initial plans presented to meet requirements according to agreed schedule. [range: D]
2.8 Components of blocks and patterns are accurately fitted together according to requirements.

3. Adapt standard size patterns

3.1 Customer figuration and style requirements are accessed from relevant work instructions.
3.2 Adaptations are made to match customer figuration and style requirements.
3.3 Specified construction line markings on the final pattern are correctly positioned.
3.4 Patterns are labelled and stored in a specified manner to preserve quality in accordance with organizational standards.

Range

A. Correct Set of Measures: Basic measurements, e.g. natural waist, full length, bottom width, outside leg; Figuration requirements, e.g. shoulder variations, hip variations, chest, leg shape

B. Methods: Tailoring; Manufacturing; 2-D block / computer-aided design (CAC) block

C. Types of Blocks: Stretch; Close fitting; Easy fitting; Dress block; Standard coat/jacket; Pants; Skirt; Sleeve; Collars and cuffs

D. Required Medium: Lightweight cardboard or tagboard; Tissue paper; Muslin material

Evidence guide

Critical aspects: Candidates must prove that they can carry out ALL the elements, meeting ALL of the performance criteria, range and underpinning knowledge on more than one occasion. This evidence must come from a real working environment.

Underpinning knowledge

What are the basic measurements for garments and where to place the tape when taking measurements?
How to take measurements and the sequence for taking them.
Why it is important to take measurements in the prescribed sequential way.
Principles and methods for: creating blocks; pattern construction and drafting for working and final patterns; sizing patterns; pattern production including positioning of construction line markings; custom-made and industry patterns.
Principles and methods for: adapting figure variations; adapting style variations.
Principles and methods for changing figure proportions and implications for figuration.
Types of media used for block creation.
Methods used for pattern storage.
Types of markings used for patterns.
Different types of drawing equipment and materials and their uses.
Standard body proportions for ladies and men.
Rules of compression and suppression.

Assessment methods: Observation, Written/oral questioning, Written evidence, Witness testimony, Professional discussion

May be assessed on the job, off the job, or a combination. Off-the-job assessment requires realistic simulation. Competencies may be demonstrated working alone or in a team. Candidate must have access to all tools, equipment, materials and documentation. Simulation should NOT be used except in exceptional circumstances where natural work evidence is unlikely to occur.